Monday, 10 December 2018

Retinoic Acid


A Magic Elixir to Erase Time
-Retinoic Acid-

                                                

As I’ve gotten older, it has become harder to ignore the fine lines that have started creeping into my youthful reflection staring back at me in the mirror.  All those extra little brown spots that have begun to emerge and those little shimmers of grey that glisten so effortlessly in the light.  It is apparent that I am aging.  And, like many other women my age, I am seeking a magic elixir that will slow down time, a product that will lesson or even reverse the signs of aging. 

In the world of ever-changing anti-aging serums and skincare, how do we chose the right product? 

Well, when it comes to the defense against fine lines and maintaining healthy skin, retinol has been proven to work3.  Retinol, alongside other retinoids, such as retinoic acid, is a derivative of Vitamin A.  A compound we cannot naturally produce in our bodies, but is essential in maintaining skin cell development and differentiation.  It inhibits collagen breakdown, increases collagen synthesis, increases elasticity, regulates sebum production and is an anti-inflammatory4.  What more could your skin need?  But wait, why does our skin wrinkle in the first place?

Wrinkles are most likely caused by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors.  Intrinsic aging occurs naturally over time; collagen and elastin production slows, the skin becomes thinner and fragile, and our oil and sweat glands begin to function at a diminished capacity2.  On the other hand, extrinsic aging occurs as a result of environmental damage.  This type of damage can result in sun spots and freckles, skin cancers and lesions, thickening of the cornified layer, and an exaggerated loss of collagen and elastin2. 

Finding over the counter anti-aging products with some form of retinoic acid (also known as, Retin-A) is imperative in reducing the look of fine lines. I would also suggest consulting your physician for a prescription.  However, if you’re looking for an over the counter solution, I highly recommend, Rendermic R Intensive Anti-Aging Treatment from Laroche-Posey at $56.00 or Restrutiv Retinol from Jouviance at $55.00.  We may not be able to stop the aging process, but we can slow it down.

                           Now let’s all continue to age with grace.

1National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Database; CID=444795, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/444795  (accessed November 27, 2018).
2Obagi, S. (2005, September 26). Why does skin wrinkle with age? What is the best way to slow or prevent this process? [Kindle HDX Version]. Retrieved from https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/why-does-skin-wrinkle-wit/
3Valenti, L. (2018, July 2). A beginner’s guide to retinol, here’s everything you need to know.  Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/article/retinol-retinoids-guide-fine-lines-sun-        damage-healthy-glow
4Veronique, M. (n.d.). Retinol explained + 6 tips for successful use. Retreived on December1, 2018, from https://www.marieveronique.com/blogs/science-research/retinol-explained-6-tips-for- successful-use
[Illustration of aging women]. [Photograph]. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.franchiseindia.com/wellness/Coming-of-age--the-anti-aging-Industry.9513 

Glycolic Acid

 Image result for glycolic acid

Do you struggle with acne or wrinkles and are looking for something to reverse its effects on your skin? As one of the most popular of the alpha-hydroxy acids or AHAs, glycolic acid is derived from sugar cane and is a natural exfoliator that works wonders on a variety of skin concerns.7 It has the smallest molecular structure of all AHAs which means it has the ability to go deeper into the skin and can get right into the very small spaces surrounding dead cells.3 Rather than buffing away these dead skin cells, glycolic acid works by loosening and dissolving the glue that is holding these cells onto the stratum corneum (top layer of the skin) which allows these dead cells to shed more easily.3 This increase in cell turnover also stimulates collagen production, which is why the skin looks so smooth and plump following a glycolic acid treatment.3

This process may sound like it can generate a bit of pain and be drying for the skin, but when used properly and at safe concentrations, glycolic acid can get to work relatively unnoticed.2 It is often used in products like peels, cleansers and moisturizers that work to correct various skin problems including everything from acne and hyper pigmentation to lack-lustre skin and wrinkles.2 Darkened skin cells caused by UV damage, excess dead cells blocking the pores and too many surface skin cells that dull the complexion are all removed and taken care of by glycolic acid.1

While glycolic acid is generally a safe product, if you use concentrations that are too high for your skin, you may experience burning, redness and swelling of the skin, or crusty scabs that may cause scarring.6 The biggest danger would have to be acid burns on the skin as the low pH level of the acid reacts with the pH of the skin and triggers a dermal response to promote the production of collagen and increase cell renewal.6  This is most likely to happen by using an at home glycolic acid peel with a concentration that is too high for the skin, or leaving it on for too long.5  This may result in the need for medical attention or a few days of rest.5

While it may seem obvious for most, it is extremely important that you try your best to keep glycolic acid away from your eyes.  In the event that it comes in contact with your eyes, seek medical attention immediately as you may experience chemical burns on your eyes, stinging and a loss of vision.3  It is also important that you do not inhale this product as it may cause a shortness of breath, coughing and wheezing.3

Due to the fact that it is an acid, it is with utmost important that you choose the right concentration and apply it correctly to avoid your skin reacting negatively. The higher the concentration of glycolic acid, the more intensive the product is going to be, so you need to consider your skin type if you want to get the best results.  Lower concentrations such as 10% are more suitable for sensitive skins whereas higher concentrations of 50% or higher are more suited to glycolic acid users with tougher, thicker or less sensitive skin types.4 If you apply a peel or product with concentration higher that 50%, you may need to visit a clinic as a high strength peel is only used to treat very severe skin problems and must be administered by a professional.4

As previously stated, when first applied to the skin, it is likely that you will experience a tingling sensation as the acid gets to work.5As you use glycolic acid based products more and more you will will not notice this happening as much as your skin will have become used to the process.5 However if you continue to experience a strong stinging sensation with every application then stop using the product immediately as it may be causing your skin more damage than it should.4

Glycolic acid can also make the skin sensitive to the sun, so it is important that you always wear a high factor sunscreen (I would recommend SPF 30 or greater) for the days following a treatment 2 or the use of a glycolic acid based product,  If you are doing an at-home peel then it is better to perform the treatment in the evening, that way your skin has all night to recover and you will wake up with smoother, clearer skin.


Ethylene Glycol

(n.d.). Retrieved December 9, 2018, from https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/10573/Engine-
Coolant-Antifreeze-Orange-1-Gallon-12346290/

Ethylene glycol is an organic chemical which most people use every day without knowing they do so; chances are if you drive a car you are a user of ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is primarily used in engine coolant as well as most antifreezes.2 

Ethylene glycol is a very toxic chemical which can cause serious harm to anyone who comes in contact with it.2 The ingestion of the chemical can cause central nervous system damage, kidney failure or even death.2,3 Most poisonings come from the ingestion of the chemical because of its sweet taste. This called upon manufacturers and governments to add a deterrent to the chemical. Dentonium benzoate is added in small doses to make it taste bitter and prevent children and animals from ingesting a lethal amount of the chemical.2 The inhalation of the chemical is not nearly as severe as it is usually controlled in the workplace by the OSHA, where a standard is set for the amount of ethylene glycol fumes that can safely be in the work area (approximately 50 ppm).4

The special characteristics of ethylene glycol come from its physical properties and how those properties are altered when mixed in an aqueous solution. Most importantly, the melting point of ethylene glycol is only -13.7 degrees Celsius and the melting point of water is only 0 degrees Celsius1. However, when ethylene glycol is mixed with water the melting point of this mixture is decreased to around -45 degrees Celsius5. Another important property is the low volatility of the chemical allowing it to not spontaneously combust under high temperatures and pressures.1 Both of these properties allow ethylene glycol to be used as main ingredient in engine coolant as it can withstand the high temperatures of cooling an engine, as well it can be used universally in cold temperatures without worrying about it freezing in the lines like water would. 


Overall, ethylene glycol is not a dangerous chemical to work with if proper safety procedures are followed. In fact, I work with engine coolant almost every day and have never experienced any sort of harm from the chemical. The biggest controversies about ethylene glycol can be answered by using it properly and safely as well as following proper disposal laws of the substance. It is important to recycle this chemical, so it can be decomposed of properly.


References:

1.     DOW Ethylene Glycols. (n.d.). Retrieved December 3, 2018, from https://www.dow.com/ethyleneglycol/about/properties.htm

2.   Ethylene glycol. (2018, December 01). Retrieved December 3, 2018, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol#Toxicity

3.   Ethylene glycol poisoning: MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopedia. (n.d.). Retrieved December 4,2018, from https://medlineplus.gov/ency/article/000774.htm

4.   Public Health Statement- Ethylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol (Rep.). (2015, January 21). Retrieved December 5, 2018, from Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry website: https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/ToxProfiles/tp96-c1-b.pdf 

5.    Staples, C. A., Williams, J. B., Craig, G. R., & Roberts, K. M. (2001). Fate, effects and potential environmental risks of ethylene glycol: A review. Chemosphere, 43(3), 377-383. doi:https://doi.org/10.1016/S0045-6535(00)00148-X.

Salicylic Acid

Koustrup, M. (Photographer). (2018) Facial cleanser containing salicylic acid. Drumheller, Canada. 
Attention to all that struggle with acne, dandruff, or even headaches!1 A simple solution to help diminish these issues are through the use of salicylic acid1. In most adolescent individuals acne is a common issue, ranging in different severities. The chemical works by triggering the dead cells of the epidermis skin layer to shed, preventing pore clogging and making room for new cells 2. Due to this chemical quality it makes it great for individuals that struggle with acne or dandruff 2.  
Salicylic acid is also known for its ability to relieve pain, fever, headaches, and inflammation through its high concentration in the widely known drug Aspirin3. A common misconception is that a crushed Aspirin tablet if mixed with water to form a paste acts as a spot treatment for acne7. Although Aspirin does contain salicylic acid the concentration of the chemical is very high and could potentially burn your skin7.
Naturally derived from plants such as wintergreen leaves and sweet birch bark3. Synthetically produced through the Kolbe-Schmitt Synthesis involving the initial reaction of phenol and sodium hydroxide producing sodium phenoxide5. The sodium phenoxide product is then put into contact with a stream of carbon dioxide, under pressure at around 150-160° C and forms sodium salicylate4. Sodium salicylate is then acidified to create the salicylic acid4.  The acid is non-corrosive and biodegradable but does pose a risk to the environment as the production involves the corrosive ingredient phenol5. Consumption of salicylic acid in an ecosystem causes slight bioaccumulation due to the rate of elimination being lower than the rate of reabsorption5.
Through the testing done on rats it has been determined that salicylic acid has a lethal dose of 892mg/kg taken orally6. Topically the chemical can be applied without causing adverse effects if following the recommended concentrations of 0.5 to 2 percent salicylic acid3.
One tip for using the chemical topically is to test the product initially in a low concentration to see if you react, then increase the concentration as you see fit. Ensuring that you do not exceed the recommended concentrations to limit the risk of a chemical burn.


References
1 “Salicylic Acid.” Human Metabolome Database (HMDB). Retrieved from http://www.hmdb.ca/metabolites/HMDB0001895
2 “Salicylic acid.” Drug Bank. Retrieved from http://www.drugbank.ca/drugs/DB00936
3SALICYLIC ACID.” HSDB. Retrieved from https://toxnet.nlm.nih.gov/cgibin/sis/search/r?dbs+hsdb:@term+@rn+@rel+69-72-7
4  Boullard, O., Leblanc, H., Besso, B. “Salicylic Acid.” Retrieved from https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/64c7/c0ed4e0add45ef31317be557932e3ebc4189.pdf
5Salicylic Acid.” IHS Market. December, 2003. Retrieved from https://ihsmarkit.com/products/chemical-technology-pep-reviews-salicylic-acid-2003.html
6 Salicylic Acid Safety Data Sheet. (2018). ThermoFisher Scientific. Retrieved from https://www.fishersci.com/shop/msdsproxy?productName=A275500
7  Sullivan, K. (2015, 05). Internet myths busted. Allure, 25, 50-n/a. Retrieved from http://libproxy.mtroyal.ca/login?url=https://search-proquest-com.libproxy.mtroyal.ca/docview/1688076799?accountid=1343






Glycerine

Buss, C. (Photographer). (2018) Hair products containing glycerine. Calgary, Canada

Glycerine is a commonly used moisturizer and sweetener found in most personal care products and is also known as glycol and glycerin1. It is a thick, colourless liquid with a slightly sweet odour2. While it’s melting point is only around 18°C, the freezing point is much lower at -38°C so glycerine works great as a cryoprotective agent2.

                Unlike other commonly used antifreezes, glycerine is relatively safe. There is no evidence linking it to reproductive problems3 and there are no negative long-term effects from using it. At high doses, it can lead to seizures, lower blood levels, and dehydration but overdoses require over 3.5g/kg to be consumed2; that’s over 250 grams needed for the average grown man!

Glycerine is also usually stable but when combined with a few specific chemicals, it can be explosive. When it is mixed with nitric acid, it forms the explosive nitroglycerine which is used to make dynamite2. Similarly, combining it with perchloric acid, chlorine or other strong oxidizing agents can make powerful explosive reactions2. These elements and compounds are rarely found in medicines though, so there is no known reactivity between glycerine and medications4.

                Glycerine is made by heating up oils and fats which are composed of esters called triglycerides which are made up of glycerol and fatty acids. By heating up the triglycerides in the presence of a strong base, they break down into glycol and fatty acids which can be purified out through a boiling process5. This process is usually done in the soap making process where lye is used as the strong base and the glycerine is left in to act as a moisturizer5. Glycerine can also be made synthetically from petroleum and is a by-product of producing biofuels6; however, the glycerine by-product is highly contaminated and instead of purifying it, it is usually just burned or disposed of6.

                Glycerine is used as a moisturizer, sweetener, and antifreeze. It can be found in everything from baked goods and ice cream to skin and haircare products and hand sanitizer6. It acts as a barrier to prevent moisture loss and to keep air off of the skin so is also found in treatments for rashes, bites, cuts and other skin irritations6 as well as a sweetener in medicine7. It is also used in mouthwashes and toothpastes because, unlike with other sweeteners, bacteria cannot feed on it and starve which helps prevent bad breath2. It is found in most E-cigarettes as well.



References:
1NIOSH. Glycerol. https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/ipcsneng/neng0624.html (accessed December 1, 2018)
2National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Database; CID=753, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/753 (accessed Dec 1, 2018).
3Briggs, G. Freeman, R. Drugs in Pregnancy and Lactation: A Reference Guide to Fetal and Neonatal Risk. [Online]. Wolters Kluwer Health. Philadelphia. 2015. Retrieved from  https://books.google.ca/books/about/Drugs_in_Pregnancy_and_Lactation.html?id=tkjvAwAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q=glycerin&f=false
4Cuhna, J. Glycerin. https://www.rxlist.com/consumer_glycerin/drugs-condition.htm (accessed December 1, 2018
 5Stai, S. How is Glycerol Made? https://sciencing.com/glycerol-made-7489385.html (accessed December 4, 2018)
6 Glycerine. https://thechemco.com/chemical/glycerine/ (accessed December 1, 2018)
7 Glycerine. (2012). In R. Sell, M. A. Rothenberg, & C. F. Chapman, Dictionary of medical terms (6th ed.)[online]. Hauppauge, NY: Barron's Educational Series. Retrieved from https://librarysearch.mtroyal.ca/discovery/openurl?institution=01MTROYAL_INST&vid=01MTROYAL_INST:02MTROYAL_INST&https://search.credoreference.com/content/entry/barronsm/glycerine/0?institutionId=2638

Aluminum Chlorohydrate


Aluminum Chlorohydrate


When I was asked the question, what is a chemical product I use that can be found at home, the very first thing that came to my mind was my antiperspirant or deodorant.Antiperspirants are personal hygiene products that are designed to control the amount of body sweat and body odour. One of the ingredients found in antiperspirant is Aluminum chlorohydrate. Antiperspirant or deodorant is the common name for this compound. The chemical name is aluminum chlorohydrate and the IUPAC name is dialuminum (3+) ion hydrate chloride pentahydroxide and the chemical formula is Al2Cl2(OH)5.
This chemical is not that deadly; however, you should be aware of the aluminum intake just to be on the safer side and prevent accumulation of aluminum in blood. Excessive exposure to aluminum can cause aluminum toxicity which could cause some short-term symptoms such as difficulty learning, irritability, short-term memory loss, disorientation, depression, mental confusion, gastrointestinal upsets, and headaches, just to name a few, whereas in the long run aluminum toxicity may lead to nerve damage, kidney damage, and osteomalacia which is the softening of bones due to vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus deficiency.

Aluminum chlorohydrate is a group of specific aluminum salts and it is prepared by a method which begins with forming aluminum methoxide from aluminum alkoxides using methanol; recovering aluminum methoxide as a solid precipitate phase, washing the compound to remove higher alcohols and drying it to recover a powder; and finally, reacting the recovered powdered aluminum methoxide with dilute hydrochloric acid to form aluminum chlorohydrate. So how is this chemical useful? Well the aluminum chlorohydrate in antiperspirants serves to reduce excessive sweating by directly blocking the sweat ducts. It also alters the pH balance of the skin and the production of sweat. And while the aluminum chlorohydrate reduces the amount of sweat on the skin surface, the ingredient also creates a skin environment which is hostile to the growth of malodor-producing bacteria to help reduce underarm odour. Aluminum chlorohydrate is also used in water and waste management processes wherein it acts as a coagulant.

Aluminum allergy is not as common as other allergies and it is rarely noticed. Those who are allergic to aluminum may experience contact dermatitis (itchy skin, rashes, etc.) when exposed to aluminum in deodorants and antiperspirants. There have been a few controversies over the use of aluminum chlorohydrate as an antiperspirant. One of the reasons why most people try to avoid aluminum in deodorant or antiperspirant is its possible link to Alzheimer’s disease. While experts have not come to a consensus that aluminum causes Alzheimer’s, there is some strong evidence of a link. For instance, in 1988 a truck driver accidentally dumped 20 tons of aluminum sulfate in to a town's drinking water. Now, over 20 years later, they are finding a higher incidence of Alzheimer’s in the people of this town that were exposed to the aluminum in the drinking water. Chemicals like aluminum chlorohydrate are estrogenic mimickers that can throw off the body's delicate hormonal balance. While no evidence suggests that alum carries this particular risk, it is a form of aluminum and would carry the same possible link to Alzheimer's. The toxicity of potassium alum is also quite high. Another misconception is that aluminum chlorohydrate is linked to breast cancer but there has been no concrete evidence supporting this and research done on it has been inconclusive. People who are concerned about aluminum chlorohydrate being a huge issue do have some other alternatives with deodorants that have ingredients such as vegetable glycerine, charcoal, vinegar, baking soda, green tea, aloe vera gel, natural preservatives like bioflavonoids and lichen and also essential oils. 

Personally, I do not use antiperspirants as much as deodorants which I use on a regular basis because my main problem is odour and dryness is not a huge issue but finding out about all these possible issues with the use of aluminum, I might try to not use it as often just to be on the safer side. I chose this product because it is a product used on a daily basis by most people and as it is easily accessible, I thought it would be useful to know the possible adverse effects it could have on some individuals if not careful. 

Resources:

Curcumin


                                             Need a little spice in your life? 

                                      Manji, A (2018). Curcumin (powder form). Calgary, Canada


Curcumin is an important ingredient within turmeric and normally found in the the root of the turmeric plant, curcuma longa (1) .  It is a spice that is found in every household.  Turmeric belongs to the ginger family and has long been used as a food colouring in most Asian countries as well as for its flavour and taste in addition to its medicinal properties (1) . When we talk about the health benefits of turmeric, it is actually curcumin we are talking about (1) .  Curcumin is often described as the “golden spice” for its colour, taste, flavour but most importantly for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties (2)

Pure curcumin is extracted employing a High-Performance Liquid Chromatography process  (HPLC)(3) .

 Anti-inflammatory properties of curcumin can help one live longer and healthier lives.  Curcumin is known to cure inflammation, Arthritis, Alzheimer’s disease, Asthma, Bowel Disease, Cystic Fibrosis, pain management, Diabetes, cold & flu, blood clots, lower blood pressure, cholesterol, and many more (4).
Curcumin with its anti-oxidant properties can provide natural glow and lust to the skin, heal wounds, helps with acne, scarring, treats Eczema, dry skin,  and also slows down the aging process and wrinkle formation (2) .
 It is only in the past few decades that western researchers have recognized curcumin also for its anti-cancer properties (5).

A lot of trials and experiments have been conducted to prove a maximum of 8 grams in either capsule or powder form is safe and well tolerated to take per day (6), yet a clear dose of curcumin has not been established (1).  However, some mild side effects such as mild nausea, rash, diarrhea had also been reported but very rarely (7).


Some of the interesting facts about turmeric are:
1.      Did you know India is the world’s largest producer, exporter and consumer of turmeric (8).  
2.      Turmeric is the main ingredient that gives its vibrant yellow color in curries,
3.      It is also used as a dye in fabrics because of its brilliant yellow color
4.      Turmeric is used in cosmetic creams to whiten the skin and for skin glow
5.       Turmeric mask can be prepared from home along with honey, yogurt, and lemon for skin glow (8).  
6.      turmeric is natural antivenin for king cobra bites,
7.      Mustard gets its yellow color from turmeric that is added to it as a coloring agent,
8.      In Indian culture, Turmeric paste is used in wedding celebrations on the bride and grooms’ face, arms and legs to beautify and enrich skin complexion (8).
9.       Turmeric is also popular and served as a tea in Okinawa, Japan (8).









References
1.      Turmeric: Uses, Side Effects, Interactions, Dosage, and Warning. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.webmd.com/vitamins/ai/ingredientmono-662/turmeric
2.      NDTV Food. (2017, August 18). What is the Difference Between Turmeric and Curcumin? Retrieved from https://food.ndtv.com/food-drinks/what-is-the-difference-between-turmeric-and-curcumin-1657211
3.     Popuri, A.K & Pagala.B (2013). Extraction of Curcumin from Turmeric Roots. International Journal of Innovative Research and Studies, 2 (5), pgs.290-299
4.     Ellis, A. (n.d.). IshaPur Turmeric Curcumin Extract with Black Pepper from Nature's Pure Source. Retrieved from https://www.turmericcurcuminshop.com
5.     Evans, A. (n.d.). Turmeric: Amazing Health Benefits. Retrieved from https://www.manataka.org/page766.html
6.     TurmericForHealthTeam. (2018, September 11). Ideal Turmeric Dosage [Updated]- How Much Turmeric Can You Take in a Day. Retrieved from https://www.turmericforhealth.com/general-info/ideal-turmeric-dosage-how-much-turmeric-can-you-take-in-a-day
8.     Baidya, S. (2018, May 23). 15 Fascinating Turmeric Facts For You. Retrieved from https://factslegend.org/15-fascinating-turmeric-facts-for-you